Watermill at Posara, Italy, Newsletter

...... introduction

We had a lovely Easter holiday with friends at the watermill, packing so much activity into our 10 days there that we had to come back to Scotland for a rest! We left Aberdeenshire in snow (we were worried that we weren’t going to make it to the airport) and we arrived back in snow. And apparently it hadn’t been much better in between: the Scottish Spring had definitely been put on hold.

But in Italy, we enjoyed 10 days of glorious sunshine: rain threatened occasionally but we managed to dodge it. It was cool when we arrived and the peaks of the Apennines visible from the mill were covered in much more snow than is usual in April. And that meant the tiny ski resort of Laghi di Cerreto, some 10 miles along the winding road above Fivizzano was open for business. All the kids and most of the adults went up for a day’s skiing – and within the next couple of days they were also swimming in the Mediterranean, cold enough at this time of year (the natives thought we were mad) but positively tropical by the standards of the Moray Firth.

Apart from that we cycled round the walls of Lucca, swooping down occasionally for a quick look at the wedding-cake façade of the church of St Michele and the stately cathedral, with its wonderful West front begun in the early 13th Century. And we chased the pigeons round the piazza dell’amfiteatro, the oval shape of which, now surrounded by tall medieval houses, defines the shape of the original Roman amphitheatre.

We walked the clifftop path from Monterosso to Vernazza in the glorious Cinque Terre, through vertiginous vineyards and, higher still, pine-scented glades alive with wild flowers. We swam (well some of us) in the harbour at Vernazza. (“Where are you from?” asked a polite Italian. “Scorzia,” we said. “Ah,” he said, the reason for our unseasonal madness fully explained.

We built kites with black plastic bin liners framed with home-grown bamboo sticks and flew them in a high-terraced olive grove with magnificent views over the peaks of the Apuan Alps.

We had picnics and barbecues, a great meal in the Al Vecchio Tino restaurant high in the mountains, more swimming in the Bay of Poets, an Easter egg hunt, a 13th birthday party, a ‘bamboo Olympics’ (jumps and vaulting-poles hewn from our bamboozery) and we even (well the kids did) made and edited video mini-documentaries, thanks to godmother Lucy’s camera, computer and infinite patience.

The girls even found time to have Italian hair-dos.

While our Scottish friends took a couple of days off to see Florence (and also to rebuild the dam in the River Rosaro which diverts the waters through the millstream, for which many thanks), the Breckons caught the train to Venice, crossing the lagoon in the evening light to arrive at the station of Venezia Santa Lucia, at the very top of the Grand Canal. Lara, who had recently finished a school project on Italy, nearly tumbled out of the vaporetto in her excitement as the waterbus took us down the Grand Canal from the station to our hotel, and particularly when we passed under the Rialto Bridge.

So you can see why we needed to come home for a rest! You, too, could do all this and more in a self-catering break at the watermill. But be sure you plug in plenty of time for R&R on a recliner in the watermill gardens and for leisurely lunches under the vine verandah. We did, but how we managed to find the time is a bit of a mystery.

Back home in Scotland, the weather soon improved and the fields are now full of lambs gambolling, including from time to time that amazing trick of leaping up into the air on all four legs, as if they were on springs.

The glen itself here at Forglen is just beginning to look Spring-like, with most of the trees and shrubs showing green tips – and the first, deep red, rhododendron coming into bloom. But perhaps the most amazing sight is the Gunnera (Gunnera manicata to you horticulturalists).

Gunnera is one of the biggest and most spectacular, architectural, herbaceous plants, commonly known as ‘giant rhubarb’. There must be 30 or 40 plants in a boggy bit by the burn in the lower glen, each with leaves as big as elephants’ ears (African, that is). In the Winter these enormous leaves die off and, withering on the ground like so many discarded pale umbrellas, they look, frankly a bit of a mess.

But now from the bulbous brown crowns, great shoots are slowly emerging, not just miniature umbrellas ready to swell to full size, but also curious, and a little scary, flowerheads. We are watching them daily as they grow, Triffid-like – and it’s a little frightening!

The mill was looking in fine fettle during our visit as Kerstin begins to prepare it for the season and we are sure everyone on our courses and in our self-catering apartments will have as good a time as we did. Since we are concentrating on our famous painting holidays and our new creative writing courses, we haven’t been actively marketing the self-catering apartments, so there is still good availability in the Summer months.

Our courses, however are pretty full and we only have a few places left between May and September - details below. Even though a course may currently be full, it is still worth checking because we do have the odd cancellation from time to time.

There are still places on our last two courses, the wonderful Anita Burgh’s ’Novel writing: release your potential’, from 27 September to 4 October and on the passionate Charles Sluga’s painting holiday, from 4-11 October.

The walled town of Fivizzano

One thing you’ll certainly be doing, whether you are on a painting or creative writing course or a self-catering holiday, is to visit the nearby walled Medieval town of Fivizzano, a mile or so up the winding provincial road from the mill.

It’s a lovely walk, if you are so inclined, taking about 20 minutes or so and rewarded with fine views back down the valley. And it’s even easier walking back of course, but the stroll up enables you to justify your breakfast at one of the town’s cafés, of ham and cheese toast, a chocolate brioche or a delicious doughnut (bombolone) stuffed with crème patisserie.

Fivizzano is a sleepy market town, complete with castle (just to the North) and a Medici fountain in the main piazza. There are lots of shops, both mini-supermarkets and small shops selling local produce, notably ham, salami, cheese and wine, and plenty of cafés, ice cream parlours, restaurants and pizzerias.

You’ll enjoy walking the streets and sitting in the cafes people-watching and you may care to learn a little more about the town before you go. British people seem to have a little difficulty pronouncing the name (Fizziano is the most popular) but if you remember the ‘Fivi’ bit and that the ‘zz’ is pronounced ‘ts’ you shouldn’t go far wrong.

In each apartment at the mill there are home-made guides that include details of all the shops, cafes and restaurants, for the edification of the self-caterers. We’ll take the painters for dinner in some of Fivizzano’s traditional restaurants and they’ll also probably spend a day painting along the Medieval walls and ramparts and in the little alleyways. And the writer’s too will enjoy evening meals in the piazza or below the castle at Verucola, to the North of the town.

There was a settlement here in Roman times and the name probably derives from one Favidus, to whom the village belonged. But is not until Medieval times that there’s much documentary evidence, and most of that derives from the power struggles of two great Italian families, the Medicis and the Malaspinas who fought for centuries over this borderland in the North-west corner of Tuscany.

The Malaspinas were feudal overlords in the 14th and 15th Centuries, ringing the town with imposing walls and observation towers, to make it one of the most fortified places in Lunigiana. At the base of the twisting pass up through the Apennines through to the province of Emilia Romagna, Fivizzano was not only strategically important, but became a flourishing trading centre, too.

In the late 15th Century, the town was captured by the Florentines, ruled by the famous Medici family, patrons of the great Renaissance flowering of the arts in Florence and powerful political princes too. (Niccolo Machiavelli gave them good advice in this area!) The Medicis, however, concentrated less on the town’s military and strategic role and saw it more as simply a trading post, with the consequence that it was besieged in the early 16th Century both by the French and the Spanish, who devastated the surrounding countryside.

Because of this Cosimo di Medici decided in 1540 to repair the ancient fortifications and also led the way in the restoration of palaces and public buildings in the town. Fivizzano flourished as a crossroads of trade, with olive oil, cereals, vegetables, salt, wine and spices passing through its market. The mineral resources of the area were traded here, too, including gypsum, kaolin, marble, building stone, coal and wood.

By the mid 17th Century Fivizzano was the administrative centre for the whole of Lunigiana. At this time, the fountain was built in the central square, the Piazza Medicea, a gift to the town from Grand Duke Cosimo III di Medici.

After the Second World War, the tide of prosperity ebbed and Fivizzano, in common with much of Italy, fell on hard times, with many of its younger inhabitants leaving to find work, either in the cities or emigrating, particularly to America and Australia. In recent years, however, the town has begun to blossom again, although it still retains its unspoilt character and a pace of life far less frenetic than elsewhere.

Indeed, it is still possible to echo the words of an early 19th Century traveller, Prospero Fantuzzi, who stopped in Fivizzano in 1829. He wrote:

"We arrived inside the very elegant Fivizzano. To anyone into whose hands this manuscript might one day fall, should they happen on this page, be so good at this point to imagine our state of mind and share with us our content and the delight that filled our imaginations upon alighting at Fivizzano.

Having crossed so many mountains, cliffs, precipices, old towns and villages more fit for wolves than men, we came across the charming view of the town...where everything was new, gracious and rich.

We went through the fine gateway into the heart of the town, surrounded by strong walls...and here we were in districts where, behind us, stood fine examples of architecture, decorated in sandstone and marble and, at the start of our tour, the majestic little palace of the Counts Fantoni, with its garden.

We came to the elegant square, surrounded by tall three-storey buildings, with a fountain in the middle...in the midst of the basin rises a spire of marble and rough stones...and four large well-carved dolphins spurt water from their mouths and to these smaller basins comes a continual stream of women to draw water, green-grocers to wash their vegetables, children to play and men to drink...".

Lois’ recipe of the month: spaghetti all'olio e aglio e peperoncino

Yes, it's a bit of a mouthful this dish (no pun intended!). In translation, it is spaghetti with oil, garlic and chilli peppers. It's very easy to prepare and, very usefully, needs very few ingredients apart from those you might have in your store cupboard.

Ingredients for two servings:

good slug of extra virgin olive oil: 1mm deep in the bottom of your pan
1 large clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
a shake of crushed dried chillies (a quarter teaspoon makes it quite hot)
enough dried spaghetti that you can curl your thumb and index finger around (more if you want to be piggy, like me - I'm not greedy, I just like a lot...)
grated parmesan and freshly ground black pepper for serving
heaped teaspoon of salt for the pasta water

Fill a casserole-sized pan three-quarters full of water and bring to the boil, lid on. Salt, then add your dried spaghetti, pushing it down into the water so that it is well covered. Bring to the boil again and cook for 9 minutes or so (or whatever it recommends on your packet), lid off . DO NOT OVERCOOK - the spaghetti is better slightly al dente.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan, keeping it to a medium heat. Add the garlic and move it around a bit with a spoon. When it has changed colour slightly, add the chillies. Don't let the garlic or the chillies burn.

Strain the spaghetti when cooked, and return to its pan. Pour the oily mixture over the spaghetti and fold it in so that every strand is covered. Serve immediately with parmesan and black pepper, and a green salad. Ideally, there will be warm oil left on your plate which you can mop up with some ciabatta.

Best to work out who you are going to be kissing for the next week, and make sure they have some too!

Painting in the early Autumn with Charles Sluga

Early Autumn is a magical time to be in Posara and Lunigiana. The days are still warm and the trees are just beginning to turn into their full fall glory. Around the mill are great stands of European oak and chestnut clinging to the hillside.

The fall colours provide beautiful subjects of painters and the warm weather makes painting en plein air a real pleasure. Among our locations will be a trip to nearby high olive terraces, where the fruit should be ripening nicely, with wonderful views over the hills to the craggy peaks of the Apuan Alps in the background.

And who better to help you capture the Autumnal beauty of Lunigiana than our tutor from Saturday 4 October to Saturday 11 October, Charles Sluga. He is a charming and enthusiastic Australian artist who taught a lovely course at Castle of Park last year and is looking forward to his first trip to the watermill.

We still have four or so places left (the precise number depends on who is sleeping with whom (!), i.e., whether we have some couple or friends are sharing a room. But there are four bedrooms still free at the mill and, as ever, single people are very welcome.)

Charles is a highly respected and sought after artist and watercolour teacher in Australia. He has gained a reputation for his versatility in both his technique and choice of subject matter. His friendly and enthusiastic approach, and eagerness to impart his wide knowledge, is reflected in his popularity as a tutor.

Charles’ courses are great fun as well as stimulating and inspiring. You can find out more about Charles on www.sluga.com.au and see our website www.watermill.net for more of Charles’ work and details on how to book on his course. (Or simply call Bill or Lois now on (UK number) 01888 568 375.)

The 2008 painting courses and availability

Here’s the list of all the remaining 2008 painting courses at the watermill which still have availability at the beginning of May 2008 (the full list, including those that are fully booked, are listed right and on our website, www.watermill.net):

Mike Willdridge
(1 place left at the mill)
(Saturday 31 May to Saturday 7 June 2008)
Watercolours, oils, acrylics, pastels
Mike works in a wide variety of media both ‘on location’ and in the studio. He works and teaches in a loose and free painting style.
For more about Mike and his paintings, visit his Tutor's page

Jennifer Branch
(full at the mill, 1 place in the village)
(Saturday 30 August to Saturday 6 September 2008)
Watercolours, oils, acrylics
Jennifer is a modern impressionist bringing her subjects to vibrant life on paper. While she prefers to work in watercolours, Jennifer is also skilled in oils and acrylics and is happy to teach in those media, too.
For more about Jennifer and her paintings, visit her Tutor's page

Laraine Simpson
(full at the mill; 1 place in the village)
(Saturday 6 September to Saturday 13 September 2008)
Watercolours, oils, acrylics, pastels
Laraine is highly regarded as a perceptive, patient and encouraging tutor working with beginners and advanced students alike. She works in oils, pastels, watercolours, and a variety of drawing materials.
For more about Laraine and her paintings, visit her Tutor's page

Charles Sluga
(4 places left at the mill)
(Saturday 4 October to Saturday 11 October 2008)
Watercolours
Charles is a highly respected and sought after artist and watercolour teacher in Australia. His friendly and enthusiastic approach, and eagerness to impart his wide knowledge, is reflected in his popularity as a tutor, and the waiting lists for his regular classes.
For more about Charles and his paintings, visit his Tutor's page and see above.

Our first creative writing courses at the mill

By the time you read this, the first ever creative writing course at The Watermill at Posara will be well under way. It’s a week-long course on Writing Romantic fiction, taken by the best-selling Mills & Boon author Sharon Kendrick. We have nine people on the course, so they can be assured of Sharon’s personal attention and, as with every course at the watermill, they’ll be well looked after by Kerstin Rommel who manages the mill and the courses – and they’ll enjoy wonderful traditional Italian regional cooking in the restaurants to which we take our guests every evening.

There’s been a lot of interest in our creative writing courses, following the successful series of course we ran when we owned Castle of Park, and our efforts have been well received in the writing world, particularly in the world of romantic fiction. In fact, the BBC, which is preparing a special hour-long documentary to celebrate the centenary of Mills & Boon, is to film a few moments from Sharon’s course, which will be featured in the documentary next November. We’ll keep you posted.

We still have one or two places left on our second watermill creative writing course, with the lovely Anita Burgh. It runs from 27 September to 4 October and it’s called 'Novel writing: release your potential’. This course, too, has a romantic flavour. Anita is a leading light in the Romantic Novelists’ Association and most of her 23 novels have more than a touch of romance in them.

Anita came late to writing, starting at the age of 46 and being first published at 50. But she’s caught up fast: her 23 novels are wide-ranging in scope - modern, historical and comic. Having been a student nurse, worked in cancer research, the pop industry, run a hotel, and lived in France and Greece, Anita has a wide experience on which to draw for her novels - and has done so!

While Anita loves to write herself, she also enjoys motivating others to do the same. She ran a successful series of courses at our old home, Castle of Park. This is what one student had to say about one of Anita’s courses there:

“A wonderful week: generous hosts, stimulating fellow participants, a warm and witty tutor and a relaxing setting. Brilliant.”

Why don’t you join her a fun-filled, but deeply practical course in a romantic Tuscan watermill this Autumn?

The 2008 creative writing courses and availability

We are running just two exclusive creative writing courses this year. Although it is too late to book for Sharon, there is still time to book for Anita. The format of the course is based on the highly successful courses we ran at Castle of Park in Scotland.

This is the remaining course:

Anita Burgh
(2 places left at the mill, 1 place in the village)
(Saturday 27 September to Saturday 4 October 2008)
Novel writing: release your potential’

For those of you who want to write a novel, but need help with work in progress or simply don’t know where to begin. While Anita loves to write, she also enjoys motivating others to do the same.
For more about Anita, visit her Tutor's page

Writing courses: what's inculded

As with our painting courses, we should emphasise that everything is included in the cost of your course: tuition, accommodation (including all linen and towels), pre-dinner aperitifs, all meals (including dinner with wine at charming local restaurants) and local transportation (including transfers to Pisa airport; the excursion by train to Lucca). All you have to do is to get to Pisa and we do the rest.

We welcome couples, even if one of you will not be taking part in the course. There is a small discount for non-participating partners.

Prices depend on which room you choose (see www.watermill.net for details). They start at £665+IVA (Italian VAT) per person per week (based on two people sharing), with a discount of £25 for a non-writing partner. Single rooms start at £715+IVA (Italian VAT). Italian IVA is currently 20%.

.......what's on offer

When the mill is not busy with painting and creative writing courses it easily reverts back to self-contained apartments, which are available for self-catering lets for a week or more.

The five spacious and elegant apartments are arranged around the courtyard. All have comfortable living rooms, well furnished bedrooms, a well equipped kitchen and modern bathroom.

Two apartments are in the three-storey Tuscan house in the mill courtyard, with views over the gardens and the mountains beyond; two others are set above the older watermill, with river and valley views; the fifth is set beside the olive press and the artists’ studio and looks out over gardens and the river. There’s more information and plenty of pictures on our website www.watermill.net.

We still have availability in June, one week in July, the second half of August and one week in September. Please call us for more details.

Anything more you’d like to know?

If there is anything more we can tell you about our activities, and the true Italian lifestyle, please call us on +44 1888 568375 or use our secure Contact Form. And keep up with our website at www.watermill.net.

In the meantime, with very best wishes,

Lois and Bill, Lydia and Lara, Bella and Rosa (the Labradogs)
- and Blaze, the guineapig.

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